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Basket strainer is a wonderful kitchen sink accessory. It works to filter debris in your sink and keep it from traveling farther down your pipes. The strainer holds water in the bowl and prevents food from flushing down the drain. A variety of finishes such as plastic, chrome or brass is available. The accessory resides between the hole of the sink and its drain pipe.

If there is a puddle of water building up under your sink, you may have a leaky basket strainer. Water under the sink will damage the cabinet and cause mildew to form. It’s important to determine where your sink is leaking. A quick test to see if it is your basket strainer will let you know if you need to replace it. If so, it’s better to do it before it causes further problems. Replacing the basket strainer won’t require you to be an expert plumber. All that is need is, some of the common household tools.

It neither needs a plumber nor requires too many tools. It can easily be replaced with the help of tools that are generally available in any household.

For replacing a sink basket strainer the basic tools we require are toilet paper, spud wrench or sprocket wrench, putty knife, plumber’s putty and replacement kitchen basket strainer.

Using a spud wrench, we unscrew the lock nut at the bottom of the sink and on the top of the sink basket strainer. If the lock nut is found to be rusted and is hard to open, we may give some hard taps on one side of the lock nut ridges with a screwdriver or a hammer. This will make the unscrewing easy.

Bring out the deteriorated basket strainer and reinstate the new one. Beforehand, apply plumber’s putty all around the edges of the new strainer. Now, gently put back the strainer into the sink hole where the previous one was located.

Put the lock nut back on, tightening it until it touches the rubber washer. Let the washer settle down into place then tighten it completely. Don’t make it so tight that the washer protrudes out the sides. This one may require a helper in case the basket strainer–both old and new–is spinning while you’re loosening or tightening. Have him hold the basket in place.

Reinstate any pipes you removed. Put back the slip nut using the spud wrench. Now fill the kitchen sink and run a piece of toilet paper all around the lock nut and slip nut edges. Dry paper indicates the successful completion of the project.

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Today is an age when homes are highly insulated and practically air tight. There seems no way for the bathroom odor to come out of it. Moreover, as the smell and the stale air remain inside the bathroom, carry a large number of contaminants and pathogens. This obviously will create certain health problems.

In order to maintain the bathroom and restrict the growth of such unwanted micro- organisms, use exhaust fans as ventilation for your oppressive home. This is a suitable appliance that keeps your home pure and unpolluted. But, more advantageously, while replacing their old exhaust fan, one should go for the bathroom heaters.

Here are some points that make this essential component, the part and parcel of one’s daily life. Keeping in view comfort, costs, safety and looks, experts have designed the bathroom heaters to make life much easier and comfortable.

The working is simple and very efficient which is obvious in its capability to maintain humidity level in the restroom. Its exclusive filter mechanism helps avoid the dust and pollen from polluting the lovely ambiance of the rest room. Bathroom heater fans also remove moisture from the air in your bathroom.

In the end, however, the primary reason to install a bathroom heater is personal comfort. The primary purpose of a heater in the home is to help keep you warm when temperatures are low. Most bathroom heater fans use some sort of infrared heat lamp that heats quickly and is ideal for heating small spaces such as bathrooms. Bathroom heater fans heat quickly but do not provide so much heat as to be uncomfortable or cause skin irritation.

Some people drop the idea of having bathroom heaters installed at their places when they think about their installation cost. In fact, the price difference between bathroom heater fans and standard bathroom exhaust fans is probably much less than you think.

Other than maintaining the bathroom temperature and the humidity and moisture level, these provide you dry surroundings. These help in keeping your bathroom fixtures like toilet and sink dry. This further prevents the mold growth and provides you a healthy bathroom.

There are no issues regarding the installation of the bathroom heaters. These are simple in their installation as anybody can hook them easily.

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Have you ever experienced the fear of water suddenly stopping when you are taking the shower? With a shower pump installed, such fear is eliminated. A shower pump is a handy accessory for a comfortable shower. A shower pump is an electric pump that is used to maintain a steady flow and pressure of water in a shower. The pump works best on stored water as compared to water that comes directly from the mains.

Installation must be carried out in accordance with following instructions, and must be conducted by designated, qualified and competent personnel. Installing the shower pump would require certain necessary tools and materials like shower pump, 15-mm pipes, Essex or surrey flange, isolating valve, thermostat, 5 amp plug point, concrete paving slab.

Positioning the pump at right place is the most important job to do. The pump is more effective if you locate it near the cold and hot eater storage tanks.

Pump must be installed such that it is accessible for servicing or removal. Shower pumps may add a bit of noise to your showers, get them placed over a concrete paving slab. Make sure adequate free ventilation is provided to the pump.

The pump should be mounted horizontally on the concrete slab whereas the outlets for the pipes should be positioned vertically upwards.

Make sure that you are done mounting the pipes before you connect these to electricity. Connect the supply of hot water and cold water to the pipes. In turn connect the hot water pipe to the hot water cylinder through the Essex or Surrey flange.

With the Essex or Surrey flange installed, there would be no chance for the pump to suck air from the vent pipe. After wards, you need to install the pipes to the isolation valve. Connect the valve to the inlet of the shower. Insert the olive or the brass ring that comes with the valve between the nut and the pipe to make a water tight joint.

Connect the electric wiring of the pump to an electric switchboard in the bathroom. Usually plugs connected to shower pumps are 5 amps and make sure that a five amp plug point is available for the electricity connection. Make sure, you start with the electrical connections only when the piping is complete.

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A shower pan is a mortar bed that slopes into a drain. Shower pans collect the water, and provide a firm base on which to stand. They are normally made of acrylic or fiberglass, and may be provided with non-slip surfaces.

A waterproof “pan” placed beneath the floor tiles or concrete base of a shower that prevents leaking. Here are some steps to install the shower pan in the correct manner.

Install the drain base. Under the tiled floor surface, lies about 2 inches of cement mortar. When using the shower, this mortar becomes saturated with water. Small “weep holes” at the base of the drain fixture allow the water to move down the drain pipe. Still, over time the water infiltration can cause damage to the grout, causing loose tiles and crumbling grout lines. Shower liners beneath the mortar are what protect the sub floor from deteriorating in the same way.

Spread a layer of latex- modified mortar to form the slope floor. Start by measuring from the center of the drain to each wall. The slope should be at least 1/4 inch for each foot.

Set a clamp ring drain at the sub floor and nail 3/4-inch float strips around the edge of the shower floor. Next, cover the sub floor with the roofing felt, followed by a layer of galvanized expanded wire lath held flat with staples.

Trowel out the latex-modified mortar. To shape the slope, ride over the float strips and the drain flange with a wood float and compact the mortar by tamping it with the float. Let the sloped mortar bed harden overnight before installing the shower pan membrane.

Install the shower pan liner. Use chlorinated polyethylene sheet membrane for shower pan liners. Install blocking between the studs around the entire perimeter of the pan area, making sure the blocking extends at least one inch above the upturned sides of the pan. Unroll the membrane and cut it to the right size, crease the corners, fold up the membrane and place it on the shower floor for a trial fit.

When you are sure the fit is right, remove the membrane, loosely screw the membrane clamping bolts into the lower half of the drain and run a bead of rubber sealant around the lower drain flange. Put the membrane over the shower floor and lower it into place. Where the upturned membrane meets the shower curb, install prefabricated dam corners, available from the membrane manufacturer. Test the shower pan. Plug the drain with an expansion-type stopper and fill the pan with water up to the top of the curb. Now drain the water and install the mortar floor.

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A shower is the modern way to freshen up. It’s quicker, more hygienic and uses less electricity and water than a bath. Electric showers connect to the cold water mains in your house, so you can install one virtually anywhere.

An electric shower saves money by using only a fraction of the water that your typical shower or bath uses and only heating the water you need immediately.

Fitting the shower is relatively easy although it is recommended that you get a qualified electrician to wire it up to the electricity supply. Follow the steps to install an electric shower. Decide on the position for the shower unit and handset. Mark the position of the unit’s fixing holes on the wall. Check that the marks and drill the fixing holes.

Drill another 1/2 inch hole in the shower wall for the copper piping that will connect the unit to the water. Using the fittings with the copper pipe, you will attach the pipe to the water valve and to the shower unit. Mount the shower unit on the mounting bracket and the shower head to the end of the copper piping.

Fit the T-joint to the rising main, only hand-tightening the cap nuts. Measure and cut an extra piece of connecting pipe if necessary to connect the T-joint to the stopcock, joining the branch pipe to the main valve. Once fitted, tighten the cap nuts and other joints well. Mount the shower head to the end of the copper branch pipe, attaching the shower unit box to the wall.

Now to make electrical connections for the shower, make a hole in the ceiling between joists where you will mount the pull-switch. Attach the mounting board on which you will fasten the pull-switch back plate. Run a piece of circuit cable up to the ceiling, running it through the mounting board. Leave at least 6 inches of excess cable at the switch position.

Attach the pull-switch back plate and strip the excess cable at the switch position, revealing one black wire, one red wire and a group of bare wires. Twist the bare wires together attaching them to the “E” terminal, the red wire to the “L” terminal and the black wire to the “N” terminal of the pull switch.

Strip the cable connected to the shower unit. Connect the wires located on the shower unit to the “Mains” terminals of the pull-switch. The red wire should connect to the “L” terminal, the black wire should connect to the “N” terminal and bare wires should connect to the “E” terminal.

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Shower benches are unique devices that can be added to a shower or bath area, making it possible for people who are not able to stand to still enjoy the benefits of bathing. A shower bench may be a portable and thus temporary addition to the shower area or be permanently incorporated into the design of the shower place.

The construction of the shower bench is not at all complicated. Manufacturers nowadays provide you with the adjustable heights to ease bathing. A great shower bench not only enhances your lifestyle but increase the value of your home.

Numerous materials are available in the market to establish shower benches in the bath area. However, it becomes necessary to waterproof the arrangement which is not at all a tough job. The marble or granite seat simply lies in a thin bed of cement mortar on the vinyl membrane. If you choose to install ceramic tile on the seat, just cut a piece of cement board first and install it as you would the granite or marble.

Here are simple steps to install the shower bench easily. First step is to determine the size, shape, height and location for the bench. At the same time, determine what the height of the mortar bed will be at the location of the bench.

It is essential that the top of the bench must be a little sloppy. It should be about 1/2inch inclined for every 12 inches. This will prevent water to stand on the bench and will help it run off immediately. Take the thickness for the bench top after subtracting the plywood thickness that is 3/4 inch. Make sure to subtract nearly half inch for the tile back board.

Next step is to construct the plywood frame over the bench. Fasten the plywood using the galvanized screws. When done up with the plywood installation, lay down the pan liner along the shower bottom. This is done similar to normal shower pan installation.

Overlap the moisture proofing or the pan liner from apex to the bottom side. Make provisions for the water to properly drain out.

Always remember to install the backboard from the bottom up so all upper pieces will overlap the lower pieces of the bench.

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